Istanbul

Büryan at Siirt Şeref Büryan Salonu, İstanbul

One morning, I rushed in the restaurant asking for ribs as if I was starving, Şeref Usta told me to come back at 11.30am, hence it is still cooking… But the büryan was ready, hanging  on the hooks, still warm, the fats dripping, calling my name. But I wanted to…

Ethem Tezçakar Usta, looking over us…

Everywhere you can have Turkish coffee. But should you? NO! There are certain things about a decent cup of Turkish coffee. The quality of the coffee, freshness, water, pot, heat source and the person preparing it. But there is another big issue, the place you drink it at. The atmosphere,…

Kaymakçı Pando Amca! The one and only!

Unfortunately… Pando Amca was evicted from his little shop on September 2014. Could not resist the transformation, the so called development the city is undergoing. It was an institution, a legacy, he was Istanbul, he was our Pando Amca. You and Madam Yuanna will be missed! It breaks my heart…

Sorry, but no: Güler Ocakbaşı Esentepe

Being unable to cook is something, but if your customers get food poisoned with your yogurt mezzes -one of us who had the mezze-, that is another thing… no need to tell about the rude waiters eating while working and talking mouthful, same as the ones in the kitchen serving the mezze,…

Sorry, but no: Dönerci Sadık Usta – Istanbul

For a decent portion of döner, you need decent meat. You need high quality meat. Because döner is made from meat and animal fat, to be precise, tail fat. But… The smell of the meat was very unappetizing, the meat used was fron various low quality cuts, nerves and all…

Kokoreç – a delicacy

As an offal enthusiast, I am embarrassed that I have not written any word on one of my favorite offal meals. Kokoreç! Kokoreç is basically lamb intestines, wrapped around sweetbreads on skewer and grilled horizontally over the charcoal fire. But not easy as is. Preparation is harsh, when you think of all…