büryan, Şeref Büryan, photograph by Tuba Şatana

Büryan at Siirt Şeref Büryan Salonu, İstanbul

One morning, I rushed in the restaurant asking for ribs as if I was starving, Şeref Usta told me to come back at 11.30am, hence it is still cooking… But the büryan was ready, hanging  on the hooks, still warm, the fats dripping, calling my name. But I wanted to…

büryan, Bitlis 4, copyright Tuba Şatana

Büryan – at Bitlis, Turkey

It is around midnight, when the büryan ovens are light up in Bitlis. There is only smoke in the dark streets of the city. Bitlis has its own pace, like all the Anatolian cities. The büryan restaurants open at 5.00 a.m and close around 11.00 a.m. It is very hard…