Food and Culture

Büryan at Siirt Şeref Büryan Salonu, İstanbul

One morning, I rushed in the restaurant asking for ribs as if I was starving, Şeref Usta told me to come back at 11.30am, hence it is still cooking… But the büryan was ready, hanging  on the hooks, still warm, the fats dripping, calling my name. But I wanted to…

Food Photo – In front of the house…

I do not about know your house, but sure mine does not have two lovely ladies sitting infront making swiss chard dolma… They giggled when I took their picture, invited me over for dinner. In Anadolu, it is very common to gather around for preparing food, gossiping about the latest…

Ethem Tezçakar Usta, looking over us…

Everywhere you can have Turkish coffee. But should you? NO! There are certain things about a decent cup of Turkish coffee. The quality of the coffee, freshness, water, pot, heat source and the person preparing it. But there is another big issue, the place you drink it at. The atmosphere,…

Büryan – at Bitlis, Turkey

It is around midnight, when the büryan ovens are light up in Bitlis. There is only smoke in the dark streets of the city. Bitlis has its own pace, like all the Anatolian cities. The büryan restaurants open at 5.00 a.m and close around 11.00 a.m. It is very hard…

Get your shopping bags! Yalıkavak Pazarı

It is that time of the year. When the sun softly touches your back, a lovely wind carrying all the earthly and flowery smells. It is time to hit the road, to Aegean Coast, where all the hills are covered with daisies, edible wild greens, ladybugs, wild flowers… Yalıkavak pazarı…

Gazoz, as local as can get!

Gazoz! Before Coca Cola ruled the world and hacked Turkey, most of the cities in Turkey had their own soda pop brands. Mostly vanilla, some has orange, mandarin, cherry flavors as well. Like local Schweppes. All in glass, 200ml or 250ml bottles. I came across this one at Safranbolu, Kastamonu. Bağlar…

Kaymakçı Pando Amca! The one and only!

Unfortunately… Pando Amca was evicted from his little shop on September 2014. Could not resist the transformation, the so called development the city is undergoing. It was an institution, a legacy, he was Istanbul, he was our Pando Amca. You and Madam Yuanna will be missed! It breaks my heart…

Tables on the streets of Şanlıurfa

Şanlıurfa is a city that never sleeps, not for the partying though, for eating!  The liver stalls goes on 24-7. The famous ciğerciler -the liver grillers- yelling out or sitting in front of the mangal -the mini bbq-, chatting with their customers, scattered around the city, on the pavements. Şanlıurfa pepper…