Istanbul

Kaymakçı Pando Amca! The one and only!

Breaks my heart to write about it… Pando Amca passed away at the age of 92. İstanbul lost one if her oldest esnaf’s. We lost an era… He will always be remembered. May he rest in peace.  (April 11th, 2018) Unfortunately… Pando Amca was evicted from his little shop in…

Sorry, but no: Güler Ocakbaşı Esentepe

Being unable to cook is something, but if your customers get food poisoned with your yogurt mezzes -one of us who had the mezze-, that is another thing… no need to tell about the rude waiters eating while working and talking mouthful, same as the ones in the kitchen serving the mezze,…

Sorry, but no: Dönerci Sadık Usta – Istanbul

For a decent portion of döner, you need decent meat. You need high quality meat. Because döner is made from meat and animal fat, to be precise, tail fat. But… The smell of the meat was very unappetizing, the meat used was fron various low quality cuts, nerves and all…

Kokoreç – a delicacy

As an offal enthusiast, I am embarrassed that I have not written any word on one of my favorite offal meals. Kokoreç! Kokoreç is basically lamb intestines, wrapped around sweetbreads on skewer and grilled horizontally over the charcoal fire. But not easy as is. Preparation is harsh, when you think of all…

Tarihi Subaşı Lokantası – Istanbul

All the walls are covered with black and white photographs, news from  international and local press, trophies, all memories with smiling faces… This place is the city’s history, its taste, its smell and its texture. The dishes are prepared with the finest ingredients. The lamb stew is like any other…

Asri Turşucu – Istanbul

Sour, salty, if you want spicy! All indispensable for me! I am talking about pickles here. Crunchy cucumbers, garlic, peppers, cabbage, okra, plum, tomato, stuffed aubergines, carrot, beet, gherkin, onion,green beans, you name it, they have it. The  shop’s display is full of colorful jars which has a rainbow effect…

Damla Dondurma-Boza – Istanbul

One of the hottest days of Istanbul I hit the road to Kurtuluş. For some ice cream and talk. The small, white, compact shop was my stop and I stayed there for hours chatting, eating ice cream and watching the locals, the kids of all age popping in for a…

Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası – Istanbul

If you feel like you are lost, and this place is so wrong for a fish restaurant, it means you are in the right place. Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası is located in Karaköy, in a rumble place. This place was used to be a fish tradesman restaurant, in the good…